ROYAL COUNTY DOWN- The Beauty and the Beast

   
After four days of most enjoyable  golf around the environs of Portmarnock, the plan was to give Lisa a breather,   take a day off from the links  and motor north  to Newcastle in Northern Ireland for the second stage of our Irish  holiday. But when Tuesday morning dawned  clear, it was rough and ready Lisa who suggested  we find a place to play on our journey north.   We selected Laytown and Bettystown Golf Club  and it proved to be a   challenging venue.  R.J. Browne, the club's long-time professional and a former European tour competitor,  warmly greeted us. R.J. cautioned us that hitting the short grass  off the tee is paramount to success at  L & B.  Following Browne's advice, Lisa found the downwind first nine to her liking  firing  a flawless 43- an all-time best  for her. Turning back into the wind, she foozled a couple, then became irritated with my apparently misguided efforts to cheer her on to a record 18 hole score. Suffice it to say that after the dust cleared, Lisa failed to break  100.  Single malt in the clubhouse lifted her spirits, and we piled into our Volkswagon to complete our journey to Newcastle.

At some point on the drive north, we crossed  into Northern Ireland. But where  is the signage indicating the location of the border?  There is none!  Obviously some political accommodations  are at work here. The coastal road approach to Newcastle took us through  the Mountains of Mourne. Our first glimpse of Newcastle is from high above the city.  The imposing red-brick  tower of the Slieve Donard Hotel-  our home for the next two nights- dominates the vista below. Our room at the  Slieve,  a great  old railroad hotel, had  been extensively renovated in a decidedly modern fashion  that   was very pleasing to two weary travelers. After a brief rest, there was still plenty of sunlight so we explored our environs. We found that the rear of the Slieve had a footpath entrance into Royal County Down.

We trespassed onto the club property and snapped a picture of the clubhouse. RCD has been on my "bucket list" as a must play for many years, so viewing the grounds at twilight only added to my excitement. But golf at RCD would have to wait for awhile  as the following day's loop was slated for the Ardglass Golf Club, a half-hour north of Newcastle.

Ardglass was a late addition to our itinerary.  However, it was an unexpectedly  inspired choice. For starters, the clubhouse is housed in a 14th century castle- undeniably the oldest in golf. Multiple cannons protecting  the castle  aim toward the course.  Many clubs in GB& I brag about the warm welcome provided visitors, but the friendliness  we encountered  at Ardglass was  particularly special. From the club secretary's personal greeting to the round of whisky purchased by an engaging   member post round who regaled us with  club lore, we could not have been treated better.

But enough about the clubhouse, let's talk about our tour around this clifftop  links hard by the Irish Sea! We were not prepared for the series of dramatic shots we were required to play over and around the jagged rock formations. The first tee shot was daunting enough with the drive  hugging  the cliff's edge with the foaming sea  hissing  sixty feet below. But the second hole allowed no bale out whatsoever. Fortunately the hole played  downwind because the 200 yard forced carry over the sea would have been a borderline situation had the wind blown in the opposite direction. We dawdled our way around stymied  behind a society of twelve french folks who seemingly  felt  that slow play ought to be  a virtue.

 Ardglasses's most visually intimidating hole is the 11th -"St. John's" - a short dogleg  par 5. The sea gobbles up  any shot that is slightly mishit to the right - especially  when the wind is screaming across the line of flight toward the water as was (unfortunately for me) the case this day. But an overcorrection to the left brings an  unplayably dense thicket into play!  Lisa was once again the story of the day. Despite a  brisk  wind, she parlayed solid  ball-striking with an improved short game and scored 95- her best score ever  on either side of the pond! Playing with some Canadians we joined  on 17, she carefully played the tricky 18th back toward the castle-clubhouse securing her bogey 5 for her PB.  

I have to say that Lisa,  basking in the glow of a wonderful round and   downright giddy,   was in no hurry to leave the friendly confines of the Ardglass Golf Club. So we extended our time there with fish and chips before we took our leave. Some have likened Ardglass to an Irish Pebble Beach. This is a stretch, but I would still say that if you are in the area to play RCD,  definitely  play Ardglass!

 

However, there is no question that the crown jewel links of this sojourn north is the aforementioned Royal County Down, and that was our destination at 12:06 PM on Thursday, May 31st. We were paired with two Americans from Utah who were bent on setting a blistering golf pace through GB & I playing 17 different courses in 10 days. To each his own, but to me that is way  too much to savor the experience let alone get acquainted with the locals. Faced with a plethora of blind shots, we elected to employ a caddy. Ken was an outspoken lad who informed us that we were going to be playing behind three groups of french tourists- yes- the same slowpokes that frustrated us at Ardglass! Ken was free with his opinions noting that he had no use for the french or germans  for that matter. Fortunately,  Americans were deemed  OK by Ken. Despite the fact that he does not  golf, Ken demonstrated skill  at his craft, always providing good guidance on yardages and targets. With clouds wreathing the  Mountains of Mourne, and  a little Irish mist to add some flavor to the proceedings, the golf  took on a rare  mystical quality.  Undeterred by the ever-present gorse and yawning pot bunkers, I striped my shots around this classic links with an air of competence  not previously demonstrated.  Buoyed by a birdie at the 6th, I turned for home in 38. All went well until I was victimized by a bad bounce into a fairway bunker on the par 5 12th. Four poor shots later, I finally emerged from this hated trap that ruined   my hopes  of shooting RCD in the seventies. I managed to rebound  with some pars coming in, and a good scrambling par on the long 18th salvaged a very respectable  83. I am sorry to say that Lisa suffered  a fearfully bad round as  she momentarily forgot how to make contact. And RCD can be  unforgiving! But Lisa  is smiling in the picture below so she was able to  bear  her gruesome play  with  good grace. My verdict: RCD has to be one of my top 5 all-time golf experiences:  breathtakingly beautiful with  trouble lurking everywhere.  Each hole is unique and belongs on a picture postcard.  The iconic view on hole number  9 is where Lisa and I took this year's Christmas card photograph.

SUNNY IRELAND - 2012 (First stop -Greater Dublin)

The title of this blog entry is not meant to be facetious.  In late May-early June, 2012, Lisa and I played golf 13 days straight  in Ireland without ever having to don our rainsuits. Mostly our rounds were played in brilliant sunshine. We had not  visited Ireland since  our first golf trip together in 2003. That previous  holiday encompassed golf in the west of  Ireland
 (Connemara, Carne, Enniscrone, Donegal, Sligo).  Based on the recommendation of  writer  Alan Ferguson,  we elected this time  to visit three renowned golf links  areas of the Emerald Isle: greater Dublin, Northern Ireland, and Donegal.

Subsequent to  some misadventures after  touching down at the Dublin airport, we found our B & B in Portmarnock, just north of Dublin. Our first glance at the  the "South Lodge," (another Alan Ferguson tip)  a former gatehouse to the Jameson estate (the Irish whiskey distiller) reassured us that we had found the perfect cozy place to kick off  our time in Ireland .Innkeepers Colin and Pat Burton were most hospitable in getting us settled in our second-story room with a view of adjoining Portmarnock Links and the the Irish Sea.  We have  had mixed success in the past on playing on our arrival day. The excitement and anticipation  of playing links golf usually collide with jet lag and exhaustion on about the 10th hole. But, after some hearty soup at the Portmarnock Hotel & Resort, a short walk from our B & B,  a short rest and the restorative sea breezes through our window, we could not resist giving the adjoining links a try. 
The Portmarnock Links is a relatively new course designed by Bernhard Langer over the aforementioned  Jameson estate land. 



                                                      South Lodge   


Both Lisa and I played respectably given the approaching
exhaustion and were glad we gave it a shot. This course has
all of the obligatory hummocks, gorse, and yawning bunkers associated with links play, but I would be hard-pressed to describe it as spectacular in any way. Still, it was the right test to get us started.





                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    
                                                         Portmarnock Golf Links  

                                             
                                                  Lisa - Portmarnock Hotel & Resort



 At times in our many U.K. golf excursions, my long-suffering partner Lisa has complained that  I run her ragged with playing golf too-early in the morning after hard play the previous time. So for our Saturday game, I scheduled a 3:40 tee time at Royal Dublin.  The links, designed in 1891,  can only be reached  by a narrow rickety  bridge over to Bull Island.  Lisa and I were paired with young American from Boston who hit tee shots with the most pronounced hook I've encountered. Even  strong winds blowing from our  left failed to deter  the ducking left trajectory of his tee balls. Royal Dublin presented a varried  array of classic  links holes. Without question, the most memorable is the finishing 18th- a  long sharp dogleg right.   To play it correctly, the player must flirt with the stream and boundary with a drive  hugging the right side of the fairway, followed by a second  (probably a hybrid)  over the boundary area  to the well- protected green. I accomplished the first part of the mission, but  came up a yard short of clearing the boundary with my less than stellar second-  disaster!                                                                          



                                                           Royal Dublin -clubhouse and 18th

 Most of the golf clubs in Scotland and Ireland  welcome us for lunch when we visit and Royal Dublin was no exception. Hearty  soup, toasted cheese sandwiches  and single malt was restorative indeed. Afterwards, Lisa and I perused the many cups and aged photos that graced the trophy cases. Noting our interest, the club's steward gifted us with a DVD commemorating the feats of the club's favorite son, Christy O'Connor, who successfully competed  on numerous Ryder Cup sides for GB&I.  The club respectfully  reserves a prime spot in the parking lot for  the venerable Christy.







Sunday, May 27th was an action-packed day.  Our golf was played  over the Island Golf Club's  vast and towering sand hills. Our innkeepers Colin and Pat,  came with us, and  all of us played for free due to a scheduling snafu to  which the club graciously  confessed error and comped us at an alternative time.


                                                       Bill, Lisa, Pat, Colin

Until recent times, the Island could only be reached by boat from the Village of Malahide across the estuary. While more accessible now, the  Island still conveys a sense  of solitary remoteness.  It was a lovely day, but I was  a little over-matched this day- particularly when hitting upwind. Deep reveted bunkers, nasty rough , and the ever-imposing dunes conspired to make pars extremely elusive.  Still we enjoyed this strict test of links. Pat and Collin had not played the course in many years.

                                                     The Island and Malahide across the estuary

After a quick lunch, we hurried back to the South Lodge to prepare for an afternoon in Dublin. Boarding the train at a nearby suburban station, we found ourselves in the middle of the great city in short order. A whirlwind tour of Irish pubs (music included) and Trinity College followed. This included the "Book of Kells" exhibit of ancient monastic  manuscripts.

                                                                                                                            

                                                                      Trinity College

After dinner, to the theatre! We saw a stand-out production of Malmet's Glengarry Glenross.The  patter-filled dramatic story of conniving real estate salesmen was riveting throughout. Back on the train with one minute to spare, and home to our bed at the South Lodge.

We played our final game in the Dublin area  early in the morning at the incomparable Portmarnock Golf Club. Just  like Royal Dublin and The Island,  Portmarnock could not be reached in its early days except by ferry. The view from the first tee with the estuary hard-by the first fairway is spectacular.  On a perfect Monday morning, , both Lisa and I struck the ball well. I carded  81 with which I was pleased  given this course's outstanding reputation. Another wonderful lunch followed  in the club's red-roofed Tudor clubhouse, and now off to the north!



                                                                                                          Portmarnock beach

                                                                                                     



















                                                     

SCOTLAND WITH FRIENDS

Dan and Bill (middle) ); Lisa & Bill (top); Dan and Simone (bottom)

Twice before in our trips to Scotland, we have visited the wonderful East Lothian destination of North Berwick. On both trips, Lisa and I spent two days in this picture-book seaside town, usually golfing on the storied West Links, before reluctantly taking our leave. We decided that for our 2011 trip, the old town warranted a more extended stay. Coincidentally my lifetime friend Dan MacLellan and his wife Simone were spending August golfing in the North Berwick environs. When Dan told us that he and Simone were renting a flat in the town, we decided to follow suit. Most rentals are rented from Saturday to Saturday and that did not square with the time we intended to spend in North Berwick. But ultimately we found an agent at Coast Properties who accommodated our request to take a flat for a nine-day period. We wound up with a one bedroomer called "Stepping Stones" on Church Street just off the beach. Better yet, Dan and Simone's place was right around the corner from ours on the main road. Still, we did not have much in the way of photos of Stepping Stones, and I was uncertain whether it would be comfortable.

My trepidation increased when we arrived in North Berwick bleary-eyed from our flight when we climbed the stark concrete staircase to our second-floor digs. But once inside, my fears were alleviated as we found a snug but bright and cheery living area. A plaque on the exterior of the building identified Stepping Stones as the birthplace of Jimmy Thompson, the longest hitter in the game in the 30's and the 1935 U.S. Open runner-up.

the red door entrance to "Stepping Stones"

We made no starting time for the day of our arrival, but after we got settled, Lisa suggested we go play. We settled on little Kilspindie Golf Club, an undersized links not far from North Berwick, and a pleasant venue for jet-lagged golfers to get their bearings. We toured it quickly (3 hours) and then savored our Guinesses outside on the terrace. It was very pleasing to contemplate that we had safely completed our journey and that we had our whole holiday in front of us.


We found Dan and Simone for dinner thereafter and we eagerly anticipated the great golf that lay ahead. The next morning we tackled Royal Musselburgh, a classic James Braid parkland-style course. I have known Dan for over 50 years and we have played together many times, but never in Scotland at the home of the game. So teeing off with him and our golf-loving wives in the shadow of the old castle clubhouse was a meaningful moment indeed! And everybody played pretty well! Dan has always had a strong short game, but his tee-to-green game was also in good order that day and for the whole trip. Simone has lovely rhythmic swing and is a very consistent. I was thrilled to shoot a steady 77 and Lisa played well also. Her highlight was a 90 yard hole-out for par after she had announced she was considering picking up. After the round, we inspected the Old Links at Musselburgh, a 9 hole layout that believe it or not was the site of several of the initial Open Championships. We retired for lunch to Mrs. Forman's Inn, hard by the Old Links 4th hole. Mrs. Forman's is now owned by an English gentleman with whom Dan engaged in a spirited discussion regarding whether the early Musselburgh golfers such as Willie and Mungo Park were more important figures in the game than Old Tom Morris. The innkeeper's advocacy on the Parks' behalf struck us as preposterous, but we nonetheless chuckled at the back-and-forth between Dan and the Englishman.

The following day, Dan sponsored us at North Berwick's West Links. He is a member of the Tantallon Club, one of several clubs whose members have playing rights on the venerable links. Playing amidst and through the ancient stone walls of the West is always a hoot, but make no mistake, it is a tough and exacting test of golf! I came down off my high of the day before while Dan's well-judged knock-downs and approach putting made him the man of the day.

On Friday, we played down the coast at Dunbar, a wonderful links that Lisa and I somehow missed on our previous East Lothian forays. Dunbar, like the West Links, features stone walls, strong winds sweeping off the North Sea, and majestic views of Bass Rock. The MacLellans outdid the Cases. But lunch in the intimate clubhouse soothed our frustration over our errant play.

Below: Dan drives at Dunbar; next below, undulating green at Dunbar; lowest, "hole in the wall at Dunbar

Saturday was the appointed day for North Berwick's Glen Club course. I am not sure any course in the game with the possible exception of Pebble Beach and Cypress Point has more spectacular seascape scenery. And the course is tough enough! It does not sport the sometimes penal bunkering of the West but there are elevation changes on several holes that can knock the unwary off stride. Dan and Simone also are members of this club and were able to take us on as guests for a greatly reduced greens fee which is always appreciated! Dan broke 80 continuing his strong play on the links.

Lisa and Bill post-round in front of the Dunbar clubhouse

On Sunday, we did something that more visiting golfers should definitely do. We played a mixed alternate shot open competition at off-the-beaten-path Haddington Golf Club. What a nice way to meet folks of a common interest- the game of golf! And the price is right. We paid 10 pounds a head. This was the one day of our vacation where the weather was less than optimum. A steady rain followed us around this parkland course. Regrettably our play suffered somewhat as a result. Dan and Simone hosted us at their flat thereafter where we met some of their North Berwick friends.

Below: Bass Rock; next below: a tight fairway at the Glen

,

Lisa excused herself from the following day's play as she was under the weather from from a nagging case of poison ivy she brought from the US (the chemist at the apothecary advised that poison ivy does not exist in the UK), and a cold. On our Monday tour of Longniddry Golf Club. Dan, Simone, and I started in the rain, but the weather cleared up quickly and we had a pleasant round over this tree-lined but still linksy lay-out. Of course, I thought it was pleasant because I made a couple of birdies and shot a tidy 78. Dinner with the ladies at Greywalls, a fabulous inn adjacent to Open Championship site Muirfield, followed. It used to be that you could not enter the grounds at Greywalls unless you rented the entire inn, but the recession has hit the upper-crust too so we were welcomed with open arms

below: Simone prepares for the mixed foursomes at Haddington; lower: Longniddry's clubhouse

Tuesday was our last full day at Stepping Stones and North Berwick, and Dan and I were closing our time together in style with a double-round at the Honorable Company of Edinburgh Golfers, otherwise known as Muirfield. Months before, I managed to find the one available August tee time on the internet at this hallowed ground and pounced on it. I have to say that it was fitting that Dan and I were playing our final round together at this top-ten-in-the -world bucket list mecca. We were greeted at the gate by the club secretary who gave us our instructions for the day. We met our caddies on the first tee and off we went. I was pretty excited to give it a go given my stellar performance at Longniddry, but about five holes out I started making a lot of mistakes. Let me tell you, Muirfield is the least forgiving of courses. Deep- really deep-bunkers litter the fairways. They are everywhere, and if you land in one, you have to pitch out sideways , and sometimes backwards. I'd like to say that I savored the atmosphere, but when struggling mightily on a links of world-class difficulty, you lose sight of all the grandeur as you try in vain to cope with the situation. Dan managed to shoot a respectable round but I cannot claim that for myself. Well we did savor the extravagant lunch in the long room after round one. Attired in coats and ties as required, Dan and I chatted with the Greywalls owner who was dining at the long table with us. We both had a drink with lunch, a decision we came to regret during our afternoon round. I did manage a 41 going out, but, loggy from drink and exhausted, had trouble finishing holes coming home. Well, still a most memorable day!

Below: clubhouse of the Honorable Company of Edinburgh golfers; next below: Lisa and Bill in downtown North Berwick; lowest: the MacLellans and Cases storm Greywalls

We left North Berwick for St. Andrews the following day, but one final thought: North Berwick, as a golf town does not take a back seat to any other place, including the home of golf. With two great courses right in the town; bustling streets filled with restaurants, pubs and cafes, and a beautiful harbor- North Berwick is unparalleled.